The 8th Avenue Post Office is extremely film friendly – shoot me an email for details at nycscout@gmail.com!

On October 9th & 10th, 2010, over 350 sites, tours, and events were made available to the public FREE for the annual Open House New York program. Open House New York is…well, an open house of New York City! A ton of fantastic options were offered this year, and OHNY graciously allowed me to take a few tours in advance to help spread the word.

My first choice? A tour of the James A. Farley Post Office at 33rd Street & 8th Ave.

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Why a post office? Because in a decade or two, this…

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…will look like this:

Moynihan 2006 Train Hall

The Farley Post Office is on track to become Moynihan Station, an extension of Penn Station, which will help alleviate a significant amount of congestion. You can see the center of the Farley building below – the roof will be removed and replaced by the atrium pictured above:

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Finally, Amtrak commuters will enter New York City through a station with prestige and class, as opposed to the underground armpit that is the current Penn Station. Meanwhile, the 8th Avenue side of the Farley building will continue to operate as New York’s 10001 post office.

What are they going to do with all the postal workers? In fact, about 90% of the building is already vacant. And covering an entire city block, that means a LOT of interesting places for OHNY guests to tour, including empty offices, an old cafeteria, a medical wing, a police wing, and more! For those that weren’t lucky enough to snag a tour this year, hopefully this post will give you a thorough look inside.

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The 8th Avenue facade was built in 1912 and meant to match the grandeur of Pennsylvania Station across the street.

Lining the top of the facade is the famous quote: “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.” Contrary to popular belief this is not the motto of the US post office, and was actually selected by McKim, Mead & White, the architecture firm responsible for the design, from Herodotus’ description of the reliable postal service messengers under Xerxes I of Persia (fun fact: it was carved by Ira Schnapp, who would later design the Action Comics logo, and many others for DC).

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While I was waiting for my tour guides, I took a moment to admire the lobby.

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Farley is one of New York’s grandest post office, and walking in feels like a step back in time.

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Though it could use some restoration work, details of the past shine on to this day, including the intricate ceiling design work:

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Anyone know why the initials R. F. are inscribed on the ceiling? [update – readers tell me that several national seals adorn the ceiling (Russia pictured above), and this probably stands for Republic of France]:

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If you’re ever in the lobby, be sure to check out the north and south rotundas, where a number of interesting postal artifacts are on display. For example, an Irish mailbox…

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Its schedule primarily in Gaelic:

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An old rural route mail delivery horse-drawn carriage…

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A sweet mail courier bike from the 1920’s:

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And a plaque remembering the sinking of the USS Maine, actually cast from its wreckage:

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I met my guides from ESDC and we headed inside the building.

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I should add that the building is very film friendly, and would be happy to consider any proposals for shoots on the property. If you like something you see in my pictures, shoot me an email and I’ll direct you to the reps in charge.

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As we headed deeper through long hallways and winding staircases, I began to pick up on the many little details amassed during the building’s near-century long existence. The LOOK sign has a 70’s feel, no?

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Most of the windowed still have hand-stenciled lettering:.

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Our first stop was an old sorting area in the center of the building, which will one day become the new Moynihan Terminal. A sky‐lit train hall on the scale of Grand Central Terminal will be built overhead. Train tracks already run below the building (mail was once delivered here by traincar), and phase 1 of the project is about to officially start, consisting of critically important transportation infrastructure improvements.

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We then headed up a flight into what used to be a cafeteria. This area would have been filled with tables…

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Remnants of a white-tiled kitchen:

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As we walked deeper into the building, I began to get a sense of just how enormous – and empty – it really is.

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I have to be honest, looking at the Farley Building from the street, the last thing I’d ever imagine inside are dark, empty hallways and crumbling rooms.

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There are a lot of fantastic filming spaces inside. I love the arched window in this former office area:

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We crossed the floor, heading through another office wing…

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A VIP office? Everything reminded me of Mad Men

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Across more empty office space…

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We then found ourselves in a hallway stretching the length of the building and overlooking the main post office area below.

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This floor was once home to the Postal Police!

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Though you’d never expect them to need it, this area used to be a jail cell for the Postal Police’s use:

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You can still see marks from the bars in the floor:

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We continued into the old Postal Police offices…

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This was the main hallway for the police wing:

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One of the neat things about the offices in this wing…

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…is that they’re all connected! Literally, a path through all 10 or 12 offices:

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An old safe in the Police wing…

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The safe is as old as the building:

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Inside the safe:

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Evidence!

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There are a ton of different office styles. From the white drywall and linoleum floors of this room…

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…we turned a corner and found ourselves in office straight out of a 1970’s cop show:

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These wood-paneled offices are also part of the former police wing…

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Many still have their wooden radiator covers:

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Right out of Serpico:

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These offices are interconnected in the same way as the first:

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Another window:

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Many of the bathrooms are pretty old, with white tiles, porcelain sinks…

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…and marble stalls:

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Two important signs still up over the sinks:

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And:

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Up another flight of colorfully painted stairs…

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This sign gives you a sense of how crowded the place once was during full operation.

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At its peak, the building housed over 4,000 employees, and a medical wing was essential. I love this old hand-painted sign:

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We headed through a pair of double-doors into the old medical wing…

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On one door:

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And the other:

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The first room has an old nurse’s office…

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The sign:

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Inside, a really interesting device by one window:

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Recognize this?

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Ha, don’t feel bad if you didn’t:

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An Electrepel Electronic Bird Repeller! I would really, really like to know if they scared the birds away by zapping them:

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A tile bathroom:

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An old key cabinet…

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…with keys to the supply room, x-ray room…and another key cabinet!

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Beds were set up in a nearby room, and workers were encouraged to take rests rather than go home:

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Very pretty to this day, despite some decay:

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Another bathroom…

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I love the old soap holder:

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Medical Officer door stencil:

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We walked down a few more hallways, coming to the post office’s photography department.

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The dark room:

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Another York Safe:

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We passed through another office room. If only these were what passed for cubicles today…

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Another large sorting room:

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A couple of inner offices:

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Time card holders still on the walls:

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We then entered a waiting area…

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The windows still have their gold-stenciling:

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I love the glow through the frosted windows from behind:

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I didn’t see any articles loose in the mails, unfortunately:

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In the waiting room, I noticed two signs from times past. First, a shelter area sign:

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Then, a light switch sticker that feels very 70’s(80’s?)-ish to me.

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Another hallway with stenciled doors…

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Several with gorgeous wooden doorways…

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Finally, we entered one of the largest areas in the building: an enormous sorting complex that covered an entire corner of the building:

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Absolutely huge, and with high ceilings and a number of freight elevators that open directly onto it, this could be an excellent place to build small sets for film productions:

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I really love the overhead offices:

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I also love this sign – is this a motto? Productivity, Productivity, Productivity, Service!

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We headed down one last flight of stairs, passing this warning…

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…And my favorite sign in the whole building:

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Our last stop was the basement. The tracks run one floor below:

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Again, lots of space, and all of it completely vacant:

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I was told this device once played a roll in shooting mail from all over the building to train cars below:

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I headed out through the glass-covered loading dock…

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…which is also available for shoots:

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And back onto the street!

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Until this tour, I had no idea just how enormous the Farley building is, and its near total vacancy just makes it feel all the more vast. OHNY guests are in for a fun tour this weekend, and hopefully millions of New Yorkers will one day enjoy it as an extension of Penn Station.

-SCOUT

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  1. ken mc Avatar

    i walk the length of farley every time I visist B&H. Who knew it was vacant? Thanks for an incredible tour.

    How do you become a film location scout, that’s what I want to know!

  2. zaboue M Avatar
    zaboue M

    love your reportages !!!!it’s like being in a detective movie ! & yes RF could mean Republique Française ( the lettering is the same ) Cheers, @ feed us soon please with new ” special investigations “!!!!!

  3. James T Taylor Avatar
    James T Taylor

    Im an English man (whose always been) in (love with) New York. Despite having visited the City many many times (including to get married) there are always gems that I havent seen. Your blog helps me see things I’ve missed or discover things to see next time I’m there. Seen The James A Farley from the outside several times and thought what an imposing building but inside wow what a treasure. Thanks for the great pictures and keep the great work up.

    James
    Southampton UK.

  4. Old Skool Avatar
    Old Skool

    Scout, I am so green with envy you would not believe. As CD commented I have often wondered what was behind the front hall. Now I and we all know thanks to your wonderful tour. Because I spent my youth in Queens I became a Pennsy fan and if in some manner Moynihan Station can bring back some of the glamour of the old jernt across the street so be it.

    On another note, is it possible that M. Flaneur is a boulevardier with a pseudonym.

  5. Pro-Zak Avatar
    Pro-Zak

    Finally OK to publish these pictures? Sweet! I work inside, and have been taking pictures for the past few years. My favorite old relic is the step-up marble urinals. Did you see the women’s bathroom stalls? Marble & brilliant!

  6. Goggla Avatar

    One of the first things I did as a ‘real’ New Yorker was mail my tax return from here on April 15, when the PO stayed open til midnight. What a fun experience – but I had no idea of the vastness inside. Thanks for this, as I am also missing the OHNY tour this year, I feel like I’ve been there through your photos.

  7. Prouj Avatar
    Prouj

    Oooooh, I’ve always loved this building. Thanks for the great tour!

  8. Malachi8 Avatar

    Another great post. I love the city and all it’s odd aging structures. All doomed in the end.

    Hey, what kind of camera did you use at the post office?

    You seem to get really good shots in low light without a flash.

    Any info appreciated.

    Keep it up!

    1. Scout Avatar

      Canon 5D with a 35mm 2.0 lens.

  9. Anne Avatar
    Anne

    Thanks for the tour! It is astounding that so much space remains empty behind that beautiful building. I love it the way it is, but it clearly begs to have a new life.

  10. jf Avatar
    jf

    RF stands for ‘Republique Francaise’.

    The eagle is the coat of arm of the habsburg house.

  11. Katie K Avatar

    It does feel like stepping back in time when you’re in the lobby. I went once and was pretty excited about it, but was greeted with terrible customer service and rude customers at the tables with the address labels. I decided I’d never go again, ha! But will make a trip back once it is transformed to the Penn station extension… to take pictures of course.

  12. jb Avatar
    jb

    scout,
    i’ve never lived in NY and am not in the film industry but i love your blog because i love the history you show. thanks!!!

  13. Doug S Avatar
    Doug S

    I found your blog through NPR.org, and it was a great tour! The USPS seems to be vacating many of their downtown post offices across the country to move operations to lower cost real estate. It’s a shame that many of these post offices will likely be razed — at least the Farley building will have a new public life!

  14. Richard Avatar

    The connection with Ira Schnapp never fails to blow my mind — he’s a legend in the world of comic book publishing. And that famous quotation always seemed to me every bit the equal of any comic hero oath. “Neither snow nor rain…” belongs right next to “In brightest day, in blackest night, no evil shall escape my sight!” or “Criminals are a superstitious cowardly lot…” or “With great power comes great responsibility!”

    Anyone interested in Schnapp’s reputation as a legend of comic book design should check out the epic series of web posts beginning here, and another look by one of his successors here.

  15. Lumicite Avatar
    Lumicite

    Yours is a most thoughtful and thorough display. It captures both the immensity of the building and the sadness of its abandonment. Thank you.

  16. Micah Avatar
    Micah

    That “productivity productivity productivity service” isn’t really a sign, per se. There were bulletin boards underneath it. Those were the headings for what was posted below on the board. I miss that old building.

  17. SueSue Avatar
    SueSue

    Loveded It! 4 snaps in Z formation!

  18. nero Avatar
    nero

    @eddie rhead: The darkroom and photo studio were used for ID mugshots as well as developing and printing photos used in postal investigations — everything from evidence of mail fraud and theft to dog-bitten mail carriers.

  19. Jude from Flushing Avatar
    Jude from Flushing

    About six years ago, I guess before the offices began to be abandoned, I went for a job interview in the Legal Department at the Farley. I didn’t get the job, but I remember calculating how much extra time I would have to plan for in my commute in order to reach the offices from the street entrance–those hallways were forever! The interconnected offices must be a Federal thing; I work for the Census Bureau now & notice the same thing. Thanx for the behind-the-scenes glimpse!

  20. Sharon Avatar
    Sharon

    It was good to hear you talking about the Post Office building this afternoon on my local NPR station out of San Francisco.

    I remember my dad showing me the Post Office when I was a child — back when I thought Penn Station would be there forever…